Karlsruhe Christmas Markets, Germany

A city probably not famous for its market, are we going to change that now?

Karlsruhe was really good. The place had a feeling of a big city, our taxi driver disagreed, but it seemed quite big to us. Decent tram network getting you over the city. The main station is reasonably far from down town, and probably a tram makes sense rather than walking, it is at least a half hour walk.

To get here, you can fly to Basel, Stuttgart, Strasbourg, and Karlsruhe even has its own airport – Karlsruhe/Baden Baden, which airlines fly there would be another question. From all of these airports, either pick up a hire car or take the train. Karlsruhe is a big train station and an interchange location, you can get to and from here from anywhere.

The city itself is not stunning, but not offensive. There are a couple of castles and palaces but otherwise not a great deal to see in the city.

But you are coming for the markets! These impressed me, it was better than I expected. There are essentially 3 different markets which lead onto one another. There is actually a forth which I will get to later. For now we will discuss the 3 main city center markets.

From our hotel, it was natural that we started at the Christkindlesmarkt, the children's Christmas market, located at the St Stephan church, Herrenstrasse. I would say this is a good starting point to work your way to the others, as from here it starts small getting bigger and bigger.

The Christkindlesmarkt at St Stephan's, is set up in a small park, walking on wood chipping covered ground, set up with many food and drink stands of the usual offerings. As you look around there are different installations depicting various children's fairy tales, with sound and movement in some of them. There is a small children's Christmas train that the kids can go on, our son loves trains! To the right of the train is a small stage and kiddies area where they have things like balloon animals and face painting as well as different shows. We saw a puppet show while there and I could see a magician also had performances scheduled. The puppet show was in German, and I think all of the shows will be – after all, we are in Germany! Without understanding German, the puppet show looked manic and not entertaining, however, I am saying this as an adult. I can tell you - our son, and the full crowd of children were engrossed and amused, laughing at the show, the kids did seem to enjoy it, for them I would say it’s worth watching for the half hour or so that the show lasts.

Almost universal to all markets, certainly the ones I’ve blogged on - Get your food before 6pm, then you can pick and choose with almost immediate service. Go later, and as the evening pushes on, you will queue.

Adults reading this without kids, or those with kids and no interest in hanging around with other kids – do not be put off by this market. This one is very nice, small and intimate with lots of food and drink options, many socially encouraged standing locations with tables to prop yourselves against to eat and drink, mingle and make light conversation. The Christkindlesmarkt is a nice one to relax and just hang out, with a festive vibe. It is very well done and one to enjoy.

Moving on from here you will head towards and past the big church which sits and serves as a backdrop to the market you have just been at, St Stephan Church. Based on the Roman Pantheon, a distinctive building that stands out, and looks beautiful. Whichever your religious persuasion, pop in, have a look and take in the building and even the festivities going on. Personally, we always like to light a candle and take some time to think.

Behind the church is the children’s market we’ve discussed, and in front of the church, the next market, at Friedrichsplatz. A market in the city park, bigger than the kids market but not the size of the main market. Each alley way of stands leading to the middle, the center piece being a symbolic Christmas Tree of lights, a modern arty thing.

This market doesn’t have the same intimacy and dare I say warm feeling that the kids market has. There are the numerous stands selling crafts and gifts, seasonal produce and sweets. There is a lot of food stalls here, and enough drink options. At the back side of the market are a couple of big stands with the grilled meats and areas for people to hang out, eat, drink and be merry.

From Friedrichsplatz, we can head to the main market, the third market. Located on the Marktplatz and around the Karlsruher Pyramide. In case you are unsure what Marktplatz means - it's the market square.

This is the showcase market, the highlight. It is a large market which is hard to miss, as there is an enormous illuminated Ferris Wheel. It’s set on a big square which is well laid out, of course it is busy, but it doesn’t feel claustrophobic and squeezed in, there is the mix of gift stands and food and drink stands, with the food and drink probably out numbering the gifts. Having your back to the Ferris Wheel, we found toilets off to the right-hand side, they were cleaned regularly and seemed to have sufficient in numbers for the crowds. In front of the Ferris Wheel was a stand selling various edible duck options, always a fave of ours, so we certainly enjoyed those offerings.

You can walk up and down the aisles and look at your own pace at all that's on offer. You can make your way off to the sides and out of the main area for some space and an escape if need be. As you wonder around these markets you will stumble across the Pyramid, sort of in the middle of the square, this houses the tomb of the city’s founder and is an emblem of the city. Not to downplay it, but given all the lights and things going on at Christmas time, it may be low down on your picture taking priorities.

I recommended the stand selling duck in front of the Ferris Wheel. A couple of other things I would recommend, look if you can find a stand selling Schneeballs (snowballs), fried dough balls with all kinds of coatings and fillings, I have mentioned them before in my Fussen blog, it has somehow become a Germanic symbol of Christmas for us, and we typically buy some to take home.

And, drinks, we cannot forget the drinks. With the Ferris Wheel behind you, head up the left hand side and a little in front of the carpark entrance almost at the far end, is a drinks stand called Seyfert, the name is on a large wooden plak sitting on the top of the stall. With a huge selection, offering for example, hot honey/mead, red/white gluhwein, Eilikor (eggnog) and much much more, to be honest, yes this stand had a huge drinks selection, it was big and well served so no real issue with queues, the biggest selling point for me, and why this one stands out, it had the nicest glasses! We sacrificed our deposit for these glasses, and they found their way home with us.

There are no end of options, the others I will mention are the Christmas Pyramid bar (Christmas pyramid is not in any way related to the Karlsruhe city pyramid – a Christmas Pyramid is a rotating multilevel nativity scene), I tend to always like having a drink at these, they can be found in every market. You cannot miss it, it is almost a landmark at the market, a unique feature in this one, is you can go inside, and upstairs is a bar with slightly elevated views of the market, apparently you can make reservations if you reach out to them. The other I will highlight, in the far right hand corner of the market (if you have your back to the Ferris Wheel), another large bar which you can enjoy drinks upon its roof, Das Stapelhaus or the Stacking House, this one seems a lively place where people perhaps enjoy more than one drink on the roof, its not bad, I like it, it is a very merry place.

I have talked and talked to you, but I still have not yet reached the highlight.

Santa flying on his sleigh. For a Christmas Market you may not have heard about, they certainly pack in a lot and make it very enjoyable. At set times during the evening, be sure to check and not miss it, 17.00 and 19.30 at the time of writing. Santa will fly from the Hotel am Markt roof to the center of the market, the star. Look up and you will see the cable, you can also see the sleigh parked on the roof top when not used.

We watched from the car park entrance behind the drinks stand Seyfert, having a bit of space and good side view of the entire journey. Its fun! Santa begins his journey, and at roughly the half way point there is some speech and words, it is made into a bit of a spectacle, once Santa has said his thing, the sleigh races to the center star with fireworks and flames coming from the sleigh skids. I have only ever seen something similar at Montreux, its a really nice touch and something a bit special for the children to see.

In my opinion, you cannot move on from this market without a plan to go onto the big wheel, the Ferris Wheel. Come on, you must! It’s pointless describing where it is, you cannot miss it. The queue moves quickly, they do not allow food, drink, or even empty glasses on the wheel, the attendants will take the glasses from you, and you can collect them on your exit. You will enjoy views of the city and the market with chance to relax as it goes round. It is not fast or scary, its semi enclosed, but you wouldn’t go in there to warm up.

I am not finished yet. This city offers more. If you walk in a straight line, leaving the wheel behind you and passing all the way through the market, past the stacking house bar, past the market, and another 100 meters or so you find yourself looking at the Karlsruhe Castle/Palace or in German, Schloss Karlsruhe. And here we have the outside ice rink. It isn’t, but it is, part of the market, if that makes sense. I have the feeling it’s independently run, but it is so close to the main market, it sort of is part of it. It is made like a disco, they have excelled in achieving the music and party vibe here. You can rent the skates off to the side, and all around the rink in this area, are bars and food stands. It is special having a skate here, with the party atmosphere, nice cheesy 80s style disco, and the backdrop of the castle and its gardens.

Tempted to visit yet?

For a relatively unknown market, as I have said, this was impressive, I expect it will get more well known as people like me visit and rave about it. If you are still with me, and are not bored of reading yet, at the start I told you there were 3 main markets or city center markets, with a forth which I will tell you about. And here we go.

A little out of the center is a neighbourhood called Durlach, you can take tram 1 there and back (Marktplatz <-> Schlossplatz, 9 stops, 13-15 mins, tram 1). It’s a nice little neighbourhood actually, looking very pleasant. Here at the Schlossplatz/Castle Square you will find the Medieval Christmas Market. In German the Mittelaterlicher Weihnachtsmarkt.

What's the first thing that struck me? I arrived at the medieval or Middle Ages Christmas Market and the first stand I see, is selling all the bright and colourful sweets in various forms of cheap plastic dispensers – nothing wrong with the sweet stand per se, just wasn’t giving me the feeling of going back in time a thousand years. Actually, this market is a bit half half. The half by the tram and street, are small normal markets with mainly food and drink stands, there are not many stands, it is small. Then at the back half, near the park area, this is where it tries for a dated, going back in time feel.

We met some older people and chatted to them over a gluhwein and they really liked this market, it was their preferred one. My opinion, it’s a nice neighbourhood market to enjoy a drink and catch up with friends, I didn’t think it is worth going out of your way for, and really do only suggest going if you have time - that said, it is only a tram ride away from the center.

In the medieval section they have many of the stands you expect at medieval events which run through out the year, people dressed in historic clothing, things like swords, axes, animal hinds for sale, mead and honey wine in brown pottery mugs. Kids and adults can try archery, and axe throwing etc. There was a blacksmith showing his skills. Of course, hippies and alternative products.

Moving back towards the tram tracks and into the modern half of the market, returning towards the food and drinks stands, pretty much in the middle of the market, is a stage, which is an interesting addition, you can go here and listen to bands playing and be entertained while out and about at the markets, which I appreciate, the market is putting on entertainment. For us it was rock covers being played rather than Henry the VIII’s Greensleeves on the Lute – rock covers being a far better genre, even if out of theme.

This market is not open as late or as long as the main markets, finishing the weekend before Christmas rather than the 23rd, depending how that falls on the year you visit. If you have time, take the tram out here and have a look, if you don't have time or you would need to miss something else to go here - do not worry, you have not missed much. However, if you know the band playing and are interested more in an outside drink at a neighbourhood market rather than an overdose of festive spirit, this could be the perfect place.

I think I have more than informed you about these markets? If not reach out to me and ask, I will try to respond. Now on to the town itself and what you can do here. Karlsruhe has a big shopping area with all the typical brands you see on any high street these days, plenty of normal shopping to be had. On Stephanplatz, near the Primark and TK Maxx stores, is a weekday farmers market, Wochenmarkt Stephanplatz.

You can choose to visit the castle/palace itself and see the attached museums and grounds, if you like, and not only ice skate here.

One thing I do not want to leave out, I think this is sooo cool, but it will not be for everyone. Karlsruhe has an eatery which has Octopus Kebabs! Imagine, the compacted tentacles going round the skewer cooking, and not only Octopus kebabs, there are other sea food and fish options to enjoy. Its called Pescobar, located at Waldstr 30. Lets see, if this is here to stay, and can make a business out of it, I hope so, and just as a side note, the only other place I know that has something similar is in Camden Town in London, England. Go on, give it a go!

If you are spending a weekend here in Karlsruhe, you should consider heading to Baden Baden and visiting their market. It is close by, you can get there in around 30 minutes by train or S bahn and costs about 10 Euro or so. A word of warning, you can take the fast train and get there in about 15 minutes, but the price, I felt, was pretty unproportionally expensive at 25 Euro or more – unless time really is an issue, take the cheaper, slower train at 10 Euro and 30 mins. Feel free to jump over to that blog to read all about it.

Karlsruhe markets will grow in popularity and you will start to hear more and more people talk about it as a Christmas Markets destination, you can combine it with Baden Baden and have a great weekend, it was better than I expected, bigger, and with some very cool additions. The town itself didn’t appear stunning with the exception of a few landmarks like the church and the palace, but overall, for a Christmas Market weekend get away, I would recommend it. Because it is not so well known, you should be able to find some great deals on hotels and accommodation, being in Germany, you will have endless choices of food and drinks.

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Janus.Skyr-Gobbler@NewYearsEveWithKids.com

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