Warsaw Christmas Markets, Poland

I first visited Warsaw in the early 2000s, actually it was for New Years Eve. I was young, with friends and there to party. It was around 15 years after Communism had left the country, it was all very raw, and poor, the city I remember being ugly, and dark. The celebration was good, the party was good, people were nice, but the city was not beautiful.

Fast forward to today, wow, what a difference. It has been developed big time, it’s booming, the city is nice and has definitely moved on, making the most of the economy which is doing well. It is a very different place. We really enjoyed the city. Was great to see the transformation and difference and good luck to them.

I think you will be able to fly from just about anywhere to Warsaw, it is a major capital and there are no end of options to fly here. The airport is a city airport, just on the edge of town, for us it was a straight road leading to the hotel, very easy. The airport has buses running into town, we found Uber was reasonable. They have Uber and Bolt taxi ranks at the airport, so you can book your car on the app, step outside of arrivals, and there waiting for you is a line of cars. There is also the traditional style taxi if you prefer.

We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express, at the Hub, Warsaw, it shares the building with the Crown Plaza. The prices were quite good, location is alright. You are surrounded by the skyscrapers, you can walk to the main tourist areas, although the metro, tram or bus (which are all directly outside the hotel) would be better. Great public transport connections, and only a few stops from the main sights. Under the hotel is a supermarket to get rations if needed. The room is very clean and pleasant; the views of the skyscraper city scape is pretty in a manmade way. If anything, the room was a little small but fine for a few days, an interesting selling point; you can have joining rooms, in case you have bigger kids. While I am not singing the hotels praises too much, and often I do not mention hotels in my markets blog, what stood out for us, and we very much appreciated. When we checked in, the staff asked our son to pick a piece of paper from a box, which indicated a present wrapped under the Christmas tree in their reception. Of course it’s only a little gesture from the hotel, but I think it goes a long way, this was very nice, and actually the gift was really good, better than I expected, some sweets, a fancy chocolate and a decent cuddly reindeer toy. I would recommend this hotel for being in an ok location, being clean, tasty breakfast and good price, but most of all, for the little touches they made to make our child happy and the overall service and friendly nature they showed us.

Warsaw has two main areas of interest for the tourist. The old town and the city center. They are not the same nor in the same area. They are not miles and miles from one another but on the other hand they are also not that close. The main market area is at the city center. Stalls and stands selling the usual goods. The old town markets, have perhaps more photo opportunities with less goods for sale, it is decorated much nicer, there are many installations and attractions, either as stand-alone pictures or as selfie spots, with beautiful backdrops. I liked the old town very much. While there are stands selling goods in the old town, mostly it is drinks and food.

The part of the market area in the old town that actually sells goods, can be found opposite the castle, along the city wall. The street is called, Miedzymurze Piotra Bieganskiego, and I am really pleased I am writing this and not pronouncing it – I could never move onto this street, I would have no chance to spell my own address!

Let’s start then. From our hotel we took the metro and got off at the stop ‘Nowy Swiat Uniwersytet’. Head on to Nowy Swiat Street, although this crosses both sides of that main avenue, for so many reasons – you want to be on the other side of the road to McDonalds, heading northbound.

You will have a 10 to 15 minute walk through the old town, towards the even older part of town. You will pass many of Warsaw sights on this road, it is pedestrianised at least at this time of year so you can walk carefree.

Let’s capture what you will see... First, from that public transport stop, you will see Palac Staszica, it houses the Polish Academy of Science, which in itself may not interest you, what is nice, they have light shows on the building in the evening at Christmas time, you know the shows which make it look like the building and window shutters are dancing.

Diagonally opposite is the Church of the Holy Cross, a beautiful Catholic church, which I am sure has numerous claims to fame, however housing the heart of the famed Polish composer Chopin, is certainly one that is high on the list.

Continuing down on this street you will see lots of grand old buildings, many of them are the university and its various faculties. You will eventually reach the Presidential Palace or Pałac Prezydencki, generally viewed from a distance behind the gates. There will be a regular military guard change with some ceremony if this is your thing, check the times, it should be hourly.

This street is so festive, with great decorations, light installations, themes and generally a Christmas vibe. For pictures, to get in to the Christmas spirit, to just feel merry, this street does it so well. Illuminated paths, dancing buildings, fairy lit Trabi’s, you name it! Needless to say, it is a nice walk, combining the old and historic buildings of Warsaw with the celebration of lights and Christmas cheer lining your route.

And then you reach the highlight - the Royal Castle!

You will I am sure, appreciate what a lovely old town square the castle sits on. There will be more light installations to enjoy. A must have photo with ‘Warsaw’ illuminated. An enormous Christmas Tree. And the Castle itself. For me, it didn’t look like a castle, rather a palace or state building. Many bars and restaurants are on the square, and the city wall with the old town markets selling goods and crafts. Once you reach this landmark, it doesn’t really matter where or how you walk around this area, as you will eventually stumble on all the places you want to reach – and find your way back again. It’s not a huge area, and just heading down each road, wondering, stopping in the shops and cafes will be a good use of time.

Down Swietojanska street you will find the Basilica of St John the Baptist/St John’s Cathedral. Look up and you will see the triangular stepped gable in all its glory. Beautiful, outside and in, on a lovely street. It’s an impressive and unique façade, not like anything I have seen.

Go down the side street and in Dean’s Palace or the Archdiocese Museum, they advertise Chopin concerts each evening from 18.30 – if you are looking for the full immersive Polish experience why not?

Back on the main street, there is believe it or not another church next door, the Jesuit Church, equally impressive front and façade, but less impressive inside due to its reconstruction.

Popping out at the end of this street, you find yourself on the Old Town Market Square, there in the middle of the square is something quite special. No No, not the Mermaid of Warsaw, although certainly symbolic with huge city status and meaning. This time, I am actually thinking the highlight is… The ice rink.

We were excited to have a skate here; I had read a few blogs describing this as the most beautiful outside rink in Europe. You can hire skates in the small hut at the side for about 3 Euro, they also rent helmets and the frames to help you round if you are not proficient at skating. In the middle of the rink is a fountain – The Mermaid! And off to the side is a big Christmas tree. Surrounding the rink are the stunning and ornate old town buildings, murals, and turrets. All lit with festive fairy lights, setting it up for the perfect atmosphere as the day light sets and night falls. Music is played and every now and then the skating direction reverses. The rink is not that big, it does get busy, however, it is certainly fun.

Would I give it the best outdoor ice rink in Europe crown?

For now, I am not the outdoor ice rink blogger, although it has been discussed to expand my repertoire, I have not done loads of ice rinks. While this one is very nice and it is in a beautiful setting, you must go to decide for yourselves, you should don the skates and have a slide. But I don’t think I would be so bold as to give it the crown.

If you don’t mind me going off topic/destination, probably the best I have skated at so far, if only for such an iconic and surreal setting - Monaco Marina and Harbour. Skating in a millionaire’s playground with opulent, excessive yachts as a backdrop among the Monaco Christmas markets – for me that was pretty special!

If you do not skate, or would rather not, do not avoid this square. Around the rink are many food and drink stands, the music, lights and atmosphere are here, in abundance. If you are not skating, go here and soak up the vibe with many others doing the same. Enjoy the beauty of the square. As well as the Christmas installations, wonder round the square and nip into an old bar, cafe or restaurant, get warm and give your feet a rest.

You will find plenty of souvenir shops in this tourist hotspot, many of them selling Christmas decorations, as well as the usual bits and bobs, you can easily spend a day to a day and a half in this old town and not be bored.

Continuing and moving on from the square you can wonder and go beyond the city walls, giving you another perspective and view of Warsaw. An interesting statue on the other side of the city walls is the ‘The Little Insurrectionist’. A nice monument you can have a quick read about if you google it.

There is also a couple of popular places to eat. Cafe E. Wedel, a famous chocolatier in Poland with an extensive menu of sweet treats, both in solid and liquid form. We went to the one on Freta Street. You may need to show restraint when ordering, and I would leave plenty of time before you plan to have dinner, to allow this indulgence to settle. There is also Podwale 25, now I am mentioning it, as it is a popular brewery pub with its own beer and German Beer Hall style food dishes, probably a decent place for a large group, if you can get in. But I must say that our experience was not wonderful, perhaps we just had bad luck – the queue to get into this place does indicate they are doing something right.

So, we have done one half of what Warsaw can offer in terms of Christmas Markets, now let us talk about the other half…

The city center markets are on a big square in front of the Palace of Culture and Science building. A huge imposing structure, which has been used as the backdrop/inspiration of the Batman comics and movies representing Gotham City – in case you thought it looked familiar. It looks cool, especially when it is illuminated as it gets dark - you do have a bit of a feeling of being in a Marvel comic half expecting the Batmobile to screech up.

These are Warsaw’s main markets, it is big and concentrated in the one area. There are a lot of food and drinks here, local specialities and international fare, standard drinks and more wild ones like local whisky hot chocolate. There’s lots of rides and attractions, including the Big Wheel which is visible for miles around, a stage for shows, rides for small children. There is another ice rink – although having done the stunning old town rink we didn’t have a skate here.

The Big Wheel, is as always, a must to go on. You get an arial view of the markets and the Palace of Culture and Science building, Warsaw and the surrounding area.

Flanking the markets are some big brand stores, for example TK Maxx. For your conventional shopping needs and wants.

The square I wouldn’t call beautiful. It’s big and has an Eastern, Communist, Industrial feel about it, that is not negative, it is what it is. Combining the markets, with the Gotham City backdrop, make them really enjoyable and memorable.

Close to the square you can find many modern shops, malls, cinema and entertainment venues, with a Hard Rock Cafe and others bars and restaurants all close by. It may be interesting to pop in, warm up, have a drink and some food if you need to escape the cold outside markets.

While here in this area, a must see, is the Varso Tower

The tallest skyscraper in the EU – testament really to how far Poland has come. The building designed by Norman Foster, with a height of 310 meters. The observation deck being slightly lower at 230 meters. You can reach this by getting to Warsaw central train station or we took the tram to ‘Rondo ONZ’. Book your tickets to get the time and date slot you want, but you can also show up and queue to get tickets for the next available lift up, it should work out ok.

Varso Tower advertises as having the highest Christmas markets in Europe, lets be honest here, this is marketing and a bit of a stretch of the reality. Having one or two wooden huts, one selling souvenirs of the tower, and the other selling some gluhwein – you decide if that constitutes a market? I wouldn’t make a huge effort to go to the highest markets in Europe, but you should try and visit the tower, which in itself is very cool – mind you, it doesn’t stop you telling friends you have been to the highest markets in Europe!

Taking the lift to the top of the tower, you come out on the outside viewing deck, it is a linear deck divided in two by the elevator and the building. You will get a view of the entire city of Warsaw, looking out far and wide, if it is not too cloudy! Looking up to the spire/aerial you may see it all frozen. It is fresh stepping outside on to the viewing deck, the wind will probably be blowing and those 200 meters in altitude you have gained, you will likely feel the chill, we certainly did and were grateful for our hats and gloves. It is a good spot to see the city, to be up there, enjoy the views, find landmarks and take some photos.

You will go inside the building and down a level, there will be an outside garden and the ‘market’, some seats and sort of city green space, if you are brave enough to stay out there in the elements. Once you have seen enough outside, you can retreat inside to a small yet very nice bar and restaurant. We treated ourselves to a glass of bubbles, while enjoying the (now warmer) views, and toasting to a nice markets trip.

I think I have covered the two markets of Warsaw, what else would you like to know?

Food

Be warned, there are loads of restaurants, plenty of options if you prefer or even have to, sit down and warm up rather than eat at the markets. But it gets incredibly busy. Arriving at peak times without a reservation at somewhere you read about on Trip Advisor, you may be disappointed. Either consider reserving or plan dining at quiet periods.

I will name two venues that we enjoyed.

Czerwony Wieprz, or the Red Hog, claiming to be a restaurant serving favourite cuisine from the dark days of soviet rule, all the favourite communist dishes that time is perhaps slowly forgetting. You know we like to eat local and rarities. We had to go here. It is a little out the way, but easily reached, still inside the city, just in a sort of residential area. It is big with loads of seating. When we ate there, in a semi-private room off to the side, high ranking foreign diplomats were celebrating the closing of a significant deal with the Polish government – I say this to demonstrate the high quality, reputation and standard of this place and its popularity. Really good food, decent staff and drinks to warm the soul.

I am a fan of duck so had a great duck dinner. I can recommend the award-winning horseradish vodka, Chrzanówka, on the menu. Not usually a fan of vodka as it being somewhat similar to paint stripper, however, this one was special, with this unusual horseradish flavour giving it a great taste.

Read many of my blogs? You know I pick up and grumble on the little things! Dining in an old Warsaw restaurant, with lots of history and its USP being communist cuisine. I was disappointed they sold Czech beer and not Polish – Not cool!! Although it was my only fault with this venue.

The other place I can suggest is the old electrical power plant, Elektrownia Powiśle, near the river and another Warsaw Mermaid statue. Next door is a steak house which looked amazing, Prime Cut and Cigar Room, we didn’t eat there but did see the dry aged steaks in the window so for sure, consider this.

Our choice was the old electrical power plant, we went with friends. It is a permanent structure done essentially as street food and market in what was really the old power plant. You enter the huge food hall, find a seat wherever you can, then choose your poison. You walk up and down, looking at the different offerings. Not particularly local, however certainly varied, Georgian, Korean, Greek cuisine, you name it, they got it. Several bars and drinking vendors to. Its a relaxed venue where you can surely find something for everyone, as there’s like 50 different cuisines and options. You place your order, pay, and are given a red buzzing disk, it will go off when your food is ready, go and collect your dish, exchanging the buzzer for your food. The building still retains some of the old electrical plant infrastructure and hardware to give it an authentic industrial feel, while being trendy and chic. If you go during the day time in office hours you will also find shops.

As I now come to an end of this blog and our few days in Warsaw, I was really pleased to see how far the city has come since my first visit. This is a vibrant, lively and growing city. The mix of the old town markets with tradition, beautiful lights, stunning backdrops and atmosphere abundance versus city center markets on the industrial square with many food and drink stands surrounded by modern shops and skyscrapers and lots of fun rides, it works so well. It is like you are visiting two completely different markets/cities – which you basically are. There are a few tourist activities to keep you busy in addition to the markets. And loads of food options to enjoy.

Before I close this blog, I feel I should inform you of something so popular in Poland and Warsaw, that they even have cuddly toys and fridge magnets depicting it, it is the subject of probably half of Poland’s souvenirs. You must, absolutely must, try this while in Poland... Pierogi! The Poles do genuinely love it, its not only for the tourists. It’s a largish savoury boiled dumping, typically and traditionally with potato, cheese, or meat inside this wrapped parcel. These days you can have them filled with anything, and they can be served as starters or mains, and even with sweet fillings or fruits to be served as a dessert. You do not need to remember the name or make a note, as you will see them absolutely everywhere on your trip.

Remember the rules!! You cannot buy the magnet unless you have tried them!

Enjoy!

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Janus.Skyr-Gobbler@NewYearsEveWithKids.com

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