Zurich Christmas Markets, Switzerland

You can fly to Zurich directly, keep in mind Basel, another airport, is not so far away, Swiss trains are very good, you could also go via Basel and take the train to Zurich. Further afield is Geneva at about 3 hours and Munich also a bit more than 3 hours with the bus or by driving.

Zurich seems to have 2 main areas, and what's interesting with Zurich is they have a decent market that's covered. Zurich train station is enormous, with a huge central hall. For Christmas they use it for a covered Christmas market. The center piece is a big tree, now, sponsored by Lindt chocolate, formally it was sponsored by Swarovski crystal, next year, who knows? I have heard some people not being fans of the covered market. Personally, I quite like them, I know it maybe takes a little atmosphere away, but it's really not that bad. And imagine in heavy rain, you are unlikely to be stood outside, whereas this one under a roof certainly gives the option to still enjoy the markets in bad weather.

From the markets and train station you get a nice view through the old arch looking down on to the famous Bahnhofstrassse shopping street and the Christmas lights they call ‘LUCY’. It's said to be so named, after the Beatles song, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.

Word of warning – I would not make a huge effort to see the lights being turned on. It is the most underwhelming thing ever. Firstly, the lights are really only street lights, there is no central tree or amazing decorations. And when Zurich advertise the turning on of LUCY, they really mean some city official in an office turns the switch on and the lights shine. There is no pomp or ceremony, no music or hype, no C list celeb flicking a switch. Despite this ‘nothing’ event, it doesn’t stop the masses going to town to be there for it. The city on Bahnhofstrasse is packed. Thousands go and see the lights come on.

The main area for the Zurich markets and the ones advertised, they are on Bellevue, Opera house, the actual name of the square is Sechselautenplatz, right at the other end of Bahnhofstrasse to the station and off from the lake on the left (if you are facing the lake).

There is a large central tree and all the usual stands, with some chalet inside food and drink options thrown in.

Personally, I am not so keen on the main Zurich markets. The station markets are not bad for rough weather days; I quite liked these. The main area didn’t impress me much. It just felt a bit cramped. I also get the feeling that both Zurich markets are in danger of becoming a street food festival rather than Christmas market. The same old food stands are creeping in and taking over the former places of craft and gift stands, which in itself could be ok, but the traditional goods that are now not being sold, and the food replacing them, are not all traditional dishes. Noodles and kebabs to name a few, in traditional wooden huts at the Christmas Markets, does take away a bit of the atmosphere.

There are other small pockets of markets over the city. Like walking through the old town and around the Cathedral is quite nice, with an amazing temporary wooden chalet selling fondue. As well as near the Fraumunster at Munsterhof there are some small stands and things going on.

While I have talked down the lights turning on and the markets, that I am not fully sold on. Zurich does have two of the most amazing things I have seen at any of the Christmas markets I have been to.

The Singing Christmas Tree – This is soooo cool. On the Werdmuhleplatz, very close to the main station, throughout the festive season, they build a structure which is decorated as a tree, and various singing groups from young children, older kids, choirs, it seems almost anyone can enter a group. And they sing, on the ‘tree’ and in the outfits provided, not really carols rather Christmas songs, they can sing anything, they even had Man in the Mirror by Michael Jackson as a crowd singalong while I was there. I am not doing it justice in my description; it is something really nice and I love it. The same square also has a temporary fondue chalet and is full of huts selling food and drink, currently of the more traditional nature. It is a great place to share a drink with friends, watching and listening to the singing, which the kids also love to do, or you can even have it as a meeting point before moving on. Do not, visit Zurich at Christmas time and miss this!

Circus Conelli – my second top tip, it has become a famous symbol and somewhat iconic, so much so you may see it on postcards and images in souvenir shops. It is a Christmas circus built on a kind of island in the river, as the river meets the lake, close to the Bellevue markets, at the end of Bahnhofstrasse, at Bauschanzli. At nighttime lit up, you will of course take pictures, it looks impressive with a great backdrop of Zurich city. You can book a preshow dinner there or just go for the show, with at least 2 performances a day, in the afternoon and in the evening. There are no animals in the circus only human performers and it has been going for decades. Inside is fancy and there is a reception bar with suspended piano and pianist and a further quieter bar tucked away at the back. Our son loved it. It is priced as a show would cost and therefore is perhaps not cheap, but the price is fair and its very professional, atmospheric and beautiful. Highly recommended.

Other recommendations to do while in town over the festive period include...

Lindt Chocolate Factory Museum – The home of Lindt and Lindor. Do you know Lindor? Chocolate balls with a soft center. If you have never tried one you simply must, these things are magic. They will be the balls you see decorating the tree in Zurich train station for as long as Lindt are the sponsor. The museum has various Christmas themed events throughout advent. We did the Christmas jumper tour, you will need to look on their website to see what will be on when you plan to go, and do book because it will sell out. The themed events make it a bit more fun, a bit more festive and a bit better value, however, the museum is great anyway, it is a super museum for everyone of all ages to enjoy. A basic bog-standard entrance is 15 CHF for an adult, you will get value for money, there is loads of chocolate to consume, too much! Very easy to get to, take a train from Zurich main station to Kilchberg and follow your nose. You can go back the same way if you want, or another option is to eturn to ton with either the bus or the boat, direction Burkliplatz, the boat being something a bit special, and Burkliplatz giving you great access to the main markets at Bellevue. The boats in Zurich are a means of transport, the same as the train and tram, so you will not pay any extra for using them, Zurich use the boats as a public transport route and the price is the same as everything else in the public transport network.

Zurich is well situated for some other nearby markets. Winterthur, Einsiedeln, and Rapperswil to name a few. I like Rapperswil quite a lot, and to add to the experience you could either take the boat there or back from Zurich to have a fun and relaxed journey albeit much slower than a direct train – but why rush?

In the run up to Christmas, Zurich does have an event where people dress as Santa and swim across the Limat river, Samichlausschwimmen, and another where they float candles down the river, Lichterschwimmen. Both Zurich and Winterthur have an event that sees the motorbike community dress themselves and their bikes as Santa and his sleigh. These events are very nice, the Zurich event is called Santa on a Harley, and actually raises money for the children's hospital.

Zurich for me has big markets which it could improve, the main area just feels over crowded and cramp, the train station one I quite like. On the other hand, it has 2 of my favourite Christmas attractions, the Singing Tree and the Christmas circus. Both activities being great for kids, families and adults alike. With plenty of other Christmas themed events going on in the city or near by, and plenty of other decent size markets in neighboring towns, to make the weekend quite special and nice.